There are very few establishments regarded as highly as Zeniya, and far fewer chefs regarded as highly as Chef Shinichiro Takagi. Dining at Zeniya to many, is the definitive pinnacle of the Japanese cuisine, an insurmountable peak of indulgence and euphoria. Zeniya specialises in Kaiseki cuisine (haute cuisine) and each patron’s experience is tailored to create a unique interaction between chef, sous chef and guest that is completely unique. It’s no wonder that the world-renown restaurant has earned two coveted Michelin stars and designated as a Relais & Châteaux property, putting Kanazawa on the culinary map.
The dining space has a minimal and elegant design that perfectly encapsulates the traditional Japanese dining experience. Comfortably warm lighting streaming through the restaurant, framed in gorgeous neutral wood pillars starkly contrasted with the dark stone masonry. The ambience adds a level of serenity and tranquility to the dining experience that brings guests into a place of zen.
Chef Shinichiro Takagi is Zeniya’s second generation chef owner, his father and mother before him were the ones who laid the foundation of this out of this world restaurant and established it’s name for generations to come. Service is often cited as a key differentiating factor when dining in a traditional Japanese restaurant, and Zeniya makes no exception. In fact, it is a central part of the establishments philosophy that each guest requires the full presence of mind and emotion as part the experience. Chef Shinichiro Takagi’s mother can still be seen personally greeting guests dressed to the nines in full traditional kimono showcasing the highest Japanese standards of hospitality.
Here, the service plays an integral role in the holistic nature of dinning, culminating in an affair that will serve all of memory. Naturally, the food is beyond stellar, Chef Takagi and his team’s creations are entirely on a different level. A milky sake from the famed Ishikawa prefecture is the welcome drink of choice that comes with amuse bouche made of canola flower in mustard dressing topped with deep fried mochi “arare” with seasonal vegetables. A cold dish with a clean taste and refreshing start to your meal.
A particular highlight is the Clam and Fish Dumpling Soup, shiromi fish with wakame (seaweed), carrot, spring mountain vegetables garnished with baby sanshō pepper leaf. The dumplings are soft and almost fluffy in texture complemented with a slight savoury bitterness from vegetables, only available during spring. Akin to watching artists at work, every dish is painstakingly prepared with utter devotion and mastery that it is near impossible to contain ones excitement. Courses range from the exotic to the fundamentals, but never a time dull.
Just enough of the right textures are at play in Kombu, Sea Bream Sandwich (tai kobujime), complemented by just the right amounts of seasoning. Served with Japanese micro tomato, carrot and taro (yam) with shōyu, ginger and a squeeze of lime. The three pieces of uber fresh fish is beautifully stacked up like a sandwich elevated by the ginger shōyu. Every course feels entirely unique and even the slightest permutation to some of the core staples of the cuisine have the most drastic differences that feels distinct to the palate. Chef Takagi’s work is a testament to innovation tempered with respect for tradition that allows him to bring the very best into the world of dining.
Sushi here is given a inventive touch with Maguro Sushi, soya sauce marinated tuna on premium rice (maguro tsuke), shavings of parmigiano cheese and dash of black pepper. For refreshments, Zeniya offers a tokkuri flask of regional sake per guest, as well as a traditional local tea among others. Exceptional quality trumps quantity when it comes to the range of beverages here, diners can be confident that every dish can be paired well with recommended drinks.
A absolute stunner is Grilled Sea Trout, Japanese sea trout flawlessly grilled and finish with chopped baby sanshō pepper leafs with a side of half boiled organic egg with truffle salt. The aroma from the sanshō leaf is immaculate and the harmony of flavours all blends into a unified gastronomic high. If there is such a thing as perfection in a dish, this is it.
There is a legitimate reason for the fanfare and exaltation bestowed unto this place. Zeniya deserves it’s position at the pinnacle of Japanese dining, through the single-mindedness and utter devotion of the chef and the team that engineers what is truly an utterly gratifying dining experience unlike any other. Home Made Nanohana is an exquisite dessert, a Japanese sweet made with beans, stuffed with sweet azuki red beans and beautified with yellow spring edible flowers.
ADDRESS:
Japan, 〒920-0981 Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa, Katamachi, 2 Chome−29−7
PHONE: +81 76-233-3331
WEBSITE: www.zeniya.co.jp/english/kanazawa.html